![]() Here is a screen capture from a test I did with a tilt/swing adapter and an old (1960s) Nikkor 50mm f1.4 lens: ![]() This image came from this page, and here are some Ebay listings for the Fujian 35mm. Here is a shot from a US$24 Fujian 35mm f1.7: Probably there are many lenses that will give such blurred highlights. I have to admit, I'm not the worlds best at DIY stuff. Was curious as to 100 mm's flare - as it seems like an ideal taking lens, but was half expecting it to have an ugly or distracting flare characteristic when coupled with morphic.glad to hear it works well. It's all about the bokeh and highlight rolloff quality methinks. Yes, flares are very long in the tooth these days, unless as a result of genuine lighting conditions - rather than hunting all the time for them. I really like the lens & am not that crazy about flares anymore (unless they are internal) - what you will get is really nice bokeh & a lovely vintage creamy image. The good thing is that it has loads of markings in ft, due to the long focus through, so it matches up to the markings on the Kowa B&H really well - no guess work or struggling to get perfect focus. I just bunged on my Kowa B&H & shone the iPhone light at it - it does flare, but not crazy mad stuff (you get the 2 horizontal, which looked a bit muted colour-wise - green & gold). Just looking at it now, the coating is a faint purple. I really use it for photography & haven't really gone morph with it much. Well its a lot smaller than the 135mm, that's for sure. Oh man, I'm currently on the lookout for Orestor 100mm f2.8 (15 blade zebra version) - can you recommend it as good taking lens for morphic? What the flares/ coating cent for complimenting iscomorphot/Kowa B&H golden flare?Īlready own the 135mm, which is lovely, but a bit too long for morphic rigging sometimes. Crazy bokeh with oval aperture installed to give faux anamorphic look, fixed oval aperture shape effectively stops the lens down slightly on horizontal axis to improve sharpness and eliminate colour fringing that is present wide open on this model, and the regular Helios 40-2. I have one remounted to an M65 Helicoid and it is one of my favourite lenses by far. Was made to fit soviet night intensifier scopes. If aperture-less lenses don't scare you too much, a 'cheaper' alternative to the Helios 40-2 is the Cyclop H3T-1 version. Helios 40-2 is a great lens, but if you wanted soap bubble bokeh as close as possible to your example image, The Meyer Diaplan 100mm f/2.8 or Pentacon AV 100mm f/2.8 projector lens would probably be as close as you would get - sub 100 quid. 99% of the time the projector lenses have no aperture, but if it's all about the bokeh and shallow DOF.it is not always a downside. I've converted many projector lenses this way, cheap way to achieve results similar or identical with projector lenses vs the much more expensive photographic versions. Helicoid is the focusing ring and supplies a rear mount to adapt to camera. "Seen these - but what exactly are these cheap chinese helicoid things? I guess to mount the lens, because the Diaplan is a projector lens indeed".
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